Mme Berthe of Broadway

Madame Berthe was a New York costumier who worked between the 1930s to the 1970s.

She is credited as designing the costumes for the 1944 Broadway Variety show, Take a Bow and for the 1932 musical revue, Hey Nonny Nonny! which played at the Shubert Theatre.

Mme Berthe is also linked to the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo when in 1940  Leonide Massine was artistic director of the company having taken over from
Massine collaborated with The New Yorker illustrator, Rea Irvine using his illustrations as inspiration for characters in the ballet while Mme Berthe executed the designs.

Judging by the three costumes I have collected, her designs are made with an attention to detail and made to endure; strong foundations, thick layers of fabric, heavy duty zips and hand sewn clusters of beads and crystals.

Mme Berthe dress, with Grace Cherry and Lady Lola. Hobart 2010 Photo by Ella B

 Suzy Benzinger a current costume designer for Broadway remembers Mme Berthe from the 1970's as one of the major costumiers in New York.

Mme Berthe's signature labels shows her at 110 West 47th st

This black corset is from the 1950's. It is made in layers of thick cotton, whale boning and black silk. 

It is finished with glass beading, sequins and lace. 

The edges are scalloped with modesty panels at the front and back illusion lace over the bust.

Photo courtesy of the seller

Photo courtesy of the seller

The seller was unsure if the original belt has been switched out for the heavily sequined belt, I found a photo of a similar costume by Mme Berth which had a similar bodysuit and the same belt.
The seller had purchased the costume from MGM in California.

Three costumes auctioned off in 2008 under 'Broadway costumes' one is credited to Mme Berthe

Mme Berthe knickers from the United States. Seller had no information on provenance.

Mme Berthe knickers- nylon mesh and rhinestone

This Tag lists Mme Berthe at 539 Broadway- New York

Zip at back

My favourite item is another Etsy find. The seller was based in Hollywood and didn't know much about the provenance. She listed the dress under vintage burlesque which is how I found it...

Mme Berthe fishtail gown

The yellow gown is heavy, The hem is lined with weights to keep the tulle inserts that flare the fishtails down. The bead work is exquisite, sequins, seed pearls, pronged crystals, gold glass bugle beeds and clusters of wispy silken flowers and white leaves, hand cut and hand sewen on the beaded panels.

It is boned through the bodice and has a heavy duty metal zip at the rear. The fabric is chiffon on top of silk.

Photo by Bret Salinger The 2011 Australian Burlesque Festival

The gown was gifted to me and after some use in shows, I no longer wear it on stage as it is very fragile... But I do use it in photoshoots... A recent shoot below...

Photo by Bret Salinger

Photo by Bret Salinger

The Australian Burlesque Festival 2012 (Melbourne)

When you live in Tasmania, you tend to hear a lot about flight delays. It's a topic of conversation that arises as often as the weather so it was no surprise when my flight to Melbourne for the Australian Burlesque Festival touched down two hours late.
A quick trip on the Skybus to Southern Cross Station and a run across the street to Vibe Savoy Hotel where I disturbed a drowsy Oopsy Daisy, my room mate for the weekend.

Oopsy Daisy had performed that evening and was crashing after being on a performance high. Baby Bombshells is the first official night of the Festival featuring up and coming performers in a friendly competition. The prize is a spot in the Big Tease, ABF's classic burlesque showcase, in Melbourne.
Oopsy had been first up and distinguished herself by tripping on to the stage in front of some of her idols,the judges, Peekaboo Pointe, Anna Fur Laxis and Tasia. Her drowsiness was only second to her anxiety over her trip up the stage!

On Friday morning we broke fast at Kinfolk, a local cafe staffed by volunteers on bourke street. Cheap and tasty and after I questioned our waitress intently, we found that the staff are more than happy to work as volunteers although I think the free coffees they score keep them going!

Oopsy Daisy at Kinfolk

Kinfolk

We mooned around Melbourne before I whipped my hair up, packed a bag and boarded a train to Thornbury where I was performing in the Thornbury Theatre as part of ABF's Empress Erotique show.
I loved the blue facade of the theatre which sat on the main strip.

Thornbury Theatre

The tech run was delayed  which gave us plenty of time to relax back stage...

Backstage refreshments

Backstage at Empress Erotique with Coppelia Jane

Everyone gets ready differently, some of us plug our ears and rehearse, some get into the zone, but Lola the Vamp I caught having a nap on the couch- no pre performance nerves for her!
The backstage area was a large airy function room lined with floor to ceiling mirrors
 To get to the Green room we had to exit a side door, bypass the kitchen and mount some stairs.

Lola the Vamp ready to go!

Performing Sirenes at Empress Erotique

Raven in the Green room

Betty Blood keeping it clean for the censors

I quickly changed into a white sequin maxi dress from the Chelsea flea markets in NYC during the interval to watch the second half from the front- not before jumping behind the merch table to give Miss Jane a hug. We met at the Perth International Burlesque Festival in May. Jane performed in the Big Tease at the Hi Fi the following night.

With Miss Jane Doe behind the merch table

Saturday was a slow day of shopping, walking and coffee with the girls from Miss Kitty's Meow who were there to support their third, Oopsy Daisy (and I like to think me too!)
We got ourselves dolled up and caught a tram up to Flinders st to join the line for The Big Tease at the Hi Fi. Headliners Lou Lou D'Vil, Miss La Vi Da and Anne Fur Laxis were easily my favourites of the night. We headed back to the hotel after the show, Melbourne was settling in for a long night of drizzling rain and we had early flights back to Hobart!

Showing off a Moro Landis showgirl costume

Moro Landis was a Vegas based production company formed by George Moro and Ruth Landis, two young Vaudeville dancers. The company was housed in a large building which had rehearsal studios, sewing and set rooms. Everything was made in house, acts were choreographed and costumes such as the two below were designed and made.

Moro Landis dance troupes performed all over the country and were resident dancers at the Sahara and the El Rancho in Las Vegas.

Photo by Bret Salinger

Photo by Bret Salinger

1973 film starring Kim Novak and Tony Curtis 'Third Girl From the Left' apparently featured Moro Landis costumes

The fringing is a little faded but the actual construction has no obvious faults, no rips, tears or breakaways.

The feather boa trim is in good condition

Moro Landis Production label.

Side view

Similar costume on Ebay 2006

I also purchased a Moro Landis show girl costume from a different seller.
It's a two piece black sequined corset with matching ostrich feather and tulle skirt. This one's currently in storage as it's very delicate and faded.

The purple chiffon is faded and a bit dirty but I love the contrast it would have made

The feathers are more of a dull grey than deep black and the sequined appliques are falling off in some sections