Out of a showgirl's trunk

New York burlesque Queen, Angie Pontani posted a photo of a trunk of treasures that she'd found at one of NYC's flea markets.
As you can see, her trunk is a bounty of dazzling items, sequins, beads and feathers.

Angie's market find
Copyright Angie Pontani

Angie was one of the first performers I saw in NYC in 2008 at This Was Burlesque at the Corio.
I loved the show so much that I returned the following weekend with a good friend from Tasmania and a group we'd met at his hostel, they too loved it so it's sad to know that the show is no longer running. But the performers, The Pontani Sisters, Melody Sweets, Peekaboo Pointe and MC Murray Hill are, so if you're looking for burlesque in the US, start googling those names!

The costumes in this entry came from a showgirl's trunk.
Most of them are unwearable, gelatine sequins which melt due to contact with water or heat, costumes so small I can barely get a foot in... So these I use for study or for guilty hoarding.

This nude illusion playsuit has a short tulle skirt, sequined rope and plastic pearl beads

The sequined rope is bald in some patches, it ends in a bow on the left hand side

Some of the plastic beads are attached with glue, others sewn on, there is no deliberate pattern!

The fabric is very thin and flimsy

The sequined rope ends in tulle swatches

My favourite piece from the collection if only because I can wear it!

Whether I find something online or on a rack, my heard starts beating just a little faster. I've gone out of my way to return to flea markets when a stall owner suggests they might have something at the back of a garage that they can pull out for the next day, I've gotten up at 3am to snipe bid on Ebay- not always sucessfully.

I was drawn to this tunic because of the design and the colour of the sequins

The front is secured with small push studs.

The back is my favourite part. The pattern is a bit uneven which is typical of the cheaper hand made burlesque costumes of the 40s and 50s

Great straps and colours. The bra is very basic, I'll update with photos of the inside seams

Cute pants with fixed ruffle skirt.

asymmetrical design...

Some of the leaves are sewn on, others are hand beaded straight on to the pants which are heavy, lined and fasten with a zip at the back.

Painstaking work, each of these were hand sewn

Occasionally I sell, repurpose or regift items, I do so reluctantly however if I can't use it, I hope that others will. A dear friend of mine was delighted when I gave her a little showgirl bra. I love it so much but it would never fit me. Happily the next time I saw her she gave me a vintage 1960's hawaiin bikini, so I think we're square!

Great little show girl bra, hand sewn, tiny fit.

I really like the design, the big ruffled shoulders with a tropical print, hand sewn sequins on the ruffles and bra.

Pink net and magenta velvet set. Jaci had multiples of this set for sale so I presume it was made for a chorus line.

Love the matching fringing, there is no faded patches on the velvet

The stitches are large and the velvet is roughly hewn 

These were from a showgirl trunk. Sold on Etsy by Jaci Brooks from California who has a collection of home made and vintage treasures up for sale including this saloon dress

Mme Berthe of Broadway

Madame Berthe was a New York costumier who worked between the 1930s to the 1970s.

She is credited as designing the costumes for the 1944 Broadway Variety show, Take a Bow and for the 1932 musical revue, Hey Nonny Nonny! which played at the Shubert Theatre.

Mme Berthe is also linked to the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo when in 1940  Leonide Massine was artistic director of the company having taken over from
Massine collaborated with The New Yorker illustrator, Rea Irvine using his illustrations as inspiration for characters in the ballet while Mme Berthe executed the designs.

Judging by the three costumes I have collected, her designs are made with an attention to detail and made to endure; strong foundations, thick layers of fabric, heavy duty zips and hand sewn clusters of beads and crystals.

Mme Berthe dress, with Grace Cherry and Lady Lola. Hobart 2010 Photo by Ella B

 Suzy Benzinger a current costume designer for Broadway remembers Mme Berthe from the 1970's as one of the major costumiers in New York.

Mme Berthe's signature labels shows her at 110 West 47th st

This black corset is from the 1950's. It is made in layers of thick cotton, whale boning and black silk. 

It is finished with glass beading, sequins and lace. 

The edges are scalloped with modesty panels at the front and back illusion lace over the bust.

Photo courtesy of the seller

Photo courtesy of the seller

The seller was unsure if the original belt has been switched out for the heavily sequined belt, I found a photo of a similar costume by Mme Berth which had a similar bodysuit and the same belt.
The seller had purchased the costume from MGM in California.

Three costumes auctioned off in 2008 under 'Broadway costumes' one is credited to Mme Berthe

Mme Berthe knickers from the United States. Seller had no information on provenance.

Mme Berthe knickers- nylon mesh and rhinestone

This Tag lists Mme Berthe at 539 Broadway- New York

Zip at back

My favourite item is another Etsy find. The seller was based in Hollywood and didn't know much about the provenance. She listed the dress under vintage burlesque which is how I found it...

Mme Berthe fishtail gown

The yellow gown is heavy, The hem is lined with weights to keep the tulle inserts that flare the fishtails down. The bead work is exquisite, sequins, seed pearls, pronged crystals, gold glass bugle beeds and clusters of wispy silken flowers and white leaves, hand cut and hand sewen on the beaded panels.

It is boned through the bodice and has a heavy duty metal zip at the rear. The fabric is chiffon on top of silk.

Photo by Bret Salinger The 2011 Australian Burlesque Festival

The gown was gifted to me and after some use in shows, I no longer wear it on stage as it is very fragile... But I do use it in photoshoots... A recent shoot below...

Photo by Bret Salinger

Photo by Bret Salinger

Showing off a Moro Landis showgirl costume

Moro Landis was a Vegas based production company formed by George Moro and Ruth Landis, two young Vaudeville dancers. The company was housed in a large building which had rehearsal studios, sewing and set rooms. Everything was made in house, acts were choreographed and costumes such as the two below were designed and made.

Moro Landis dance troupes performed all over the country and were resident dancers at the Sahara and the El Rancho in Las Vegas.

Photo by Bret Salinger

Photo by Bret Salinger

1973 film starring Kim Novak and Tony Curtis 'Third Girl From the Left' apparently featured Moro Landis costumes

The fringing is a little faded but the actual construction has no obvious faults, no rips, tears or breakaways.

The feather boa trim is in good condition

Moro Landis Production label.

Side view

Similar costume on Ebay 2006

I also purchased a Moro Landis show girl costume from a different seller.
It's a two piece black sequined corset with matching ostrich feather and tulle skirt. This one's currently in storage as it's very delicate and faded.

The purple chiffon is faded and a bit dirty but I love the contrast it would have made

The feathers are more of a dull grey than deep black and the sequined appliques are falling off in some sections