Friday, May 3, 2013

Out of a showgirl's trunk

New York burlesque Queen, Angie Pontani posted a photo of a trunk of treasures that she'd found at one of NYC's flea markets.
As you can see, her trunk is a bounty of dazzling items, sequins, beads and feathers.




Angie's market find
Copyright Angie Pontani

Angie was one of the first performers I saw in NYC in 2008 at This Was Burlesque at the Corio.
I loved the show so much that I returned the following weekend with a good friend from Tasmania and a group we'd met at his hostel, they too loved it so it's sad to know that the show is no longer running. But the performers, The Pontani Sisters, Melody Sweets, Peekaboo Pointe and MC Murray Hill are, so if you're looking for burlesque in the US, start googling those names!

The costumes in this entry came from a showgirl's trunk.
Most of them are unwearable, gelatine sequins which melt due to contact with water or heat, costumes so small I can barely get a foot in... So these I use for study or for guilty hoarding.

This nude illusion playsuit has a short tulle skirt, sequined rope and plastic pearl beads

The sequined rope is bald in some patches, it ends in a bow on the left hand side

Some of the plastic beads are attached with glue, others sewn on, there is no deliberate pattern!

The fabric is very thin and flimsy
The sequined rope ends in tulle swatches

My favourite piece from the collection if only because I can wear it!


Whether I find something online or on a rack, my heard starts beating just a little faster. I've gone out of my way to return to flea markets when a stall owner suggests they might have something at the back of a garage that they can pull out for the next day, I've gotten up at 3am to snipe bid on Ebay- not always sucessfully.


I was drawn to this tunic because of the design and the colour of the sequins


The front is secured with small push studs.
The back is my favourite part. The pattern is a bit uneven which is typical of the cheaper hand made burlesque costumes of the 40s and 50s
Great straps and colours. The bra is very basic, I'll update with photos of the inside seams

Cute pants with fixed ruffle skirt.


asymmetrical design...


Some of the leaves are sewn on, others are hand beaded straight on to the pants which are heavy, lined and fasten with a zip at the back.
Painstaking work, each of these were hand sewn

Occasionally I sell, repurpose or regift items, I do so reluctantly however if I can't use it, I hope that others will. A dear friend of mine was delighted when I gave her a little showgirl bra. I love it so much but it would never fit me. Happily the next time I saw her she gave me a vintage 1960's hawaiin bikini, so I think we're square!


Great little show girl bra, hand sewn, tiny fit.
I really like the design, the big ruffled shoulders with a tropical print, hand sewn sequins on the ruffles and bra.
Pink net and magenta velvet set. Jaci had multiples of this set for sale so I presume it was made for a chorus line.

Love the matching fringing, there is no faded patches on the velvet

The stitches are large and the velvet is roughly hewn 


These were from a showgirl trunk. Sold on Etsy by Jaci Brooks from California who has a collection of home made and vintage treasures up for sale including this saloon dress



Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Pageant Queen at Miss Burlesque Tasmania 2013

About a year ago I asked a college friend if he had ever thought he would see me on stage, performing burlesque. The response was a firm "no." I was not known for wearing dresses or skirts, I didn't start wearing more than mascara until I was 22 and even then I had to get someone else to help me apply the extra pancake.
So, winning Miss Burlesque 2013 wasn't really on the cards. I think my face says it all...

I entered the competition after chatting to Grace Cherry who competed in 2012 and judged me the first time I competed in 2010. Her motivations appealed to me, the idea of polishing three acts, gaining video footage and challenging myself on the night.

Sarah Muir from Tasmania's Pole and Burlesque Academy in Moonah sponsored me, this sponsorship included free studio time, massages and even some fabric to costume the skirt wavers in my Sirenes act.
Sarah has always supported Tasmanian burlesque, she revived burlesque in Tasmania in 2007 with a group that included Miss Kitty's Meow's Grace Cherry and Tiger Lilly, The Diamond's of Burlesque Bebe Sparkle as well as myself.

The night itself started for the performers and crew at 1:30pm when we were allowed to clutter the changerooms with all manner of fantastic costumes and props. I shared a smaller dressing room with Grace Cherry, Oopsy Daisy and Velvet Sway. Above the door written in texta was 'the room of cock,' we liked it. The room was loud with laughter and chatter as well as my oft uttered "I'm so tired... I'm so hungry..." Velvet came to my rescue with some dried apricots!


Costumes ready to go


Grace Cherry, Velvet Sway and Oopsy Daisy backstage before the gown parade


Tech run went over time which led to some of us having a less than perfect run through but it was great to jump onto the Theatre Royal stage again, it really is a gorgeous space to perform in, there's something wonderful about standing in wings of heavy black velvet before you perform.


The theatre Royal from the stage!

Tiger Lilly was my hair and make up go to gal, we did a quick test prior to the competition and determined on a style that could evolve during the night. We did really well until my unique which required a lot of glue and glitter around my eyes,  after which it was hard to recover a flawless finish for the presentations at the end of the night!


Tiger Lilly


The actual competition started at 7pm, Missy de Meanour performed a classic act before making her way to the judging table. Then, the gown parade, picture ten nervous girls waiting side of stage for about 15 minutes. I attacked my walk, my gown was a little bit creased so whenever I stopped I would pick up the hem to show my foot or twist the skirt to make it less obvious.
The night was on, three hours of running from stage to room to the back up dancers room and back to the stage.
Classic was next, I already had my pasties on, so it was easy enough to change, yell a quick "chookas!!" to the other girls and then stride out onto the stage, a little nervous at first as I start with a slow walk, but then as the energy picked up I felt myself sinking into character, becoming bolder, remembering that really, it's just another show.
I finished with a fabulously deep back bend tassel twirl at the edge of the stage and flashed a brilliant grin to the audience.

Classic act

Neo was next, I enlisted my friend Jo to dress as a drag king and waltz me around the stage as we did a take off of Strictly ballroom. Tiger Lily swept my fringe up into a glitter strewn confection and painted my lips a frosty pink. For this act we were going back to the 80's!

With Jo aka Raoul de Silva before my neo act

We all had to run backstage and change for unique. Even though only five would get through you had to remain optimistic and be ready to go onstage. Bebe came backstage and drew the names in order of performance.

The five remaining finalists were: Velvet Sway, Lucy Sky Diamond, Miss BonnieVille Lulu L'Pearl and Grace Cherry.
A flurry of activity and then suddenly I was racing on to the darkened stage with my shrouded boys, Zeb and Dean. My tech run had been cut short so I was a little hesitant in my movement and looked down more than I normally would but my new head piece and Thai fingernails were something extra that I could play with and I relished the time I had on stage.

Photo by CezB photography

Photo by CezB Phtography

Finally I had to peel the glue off my face and do a 5 second dodgy make up retouch before returning to the stage for the presentation.

From L- R Grace Cherry, Oopsy Daisy, Lucy Sky Diamond, Velvet Sway and Miss Jaye backstage before presentation

I remember looking at the faces of the judges, I know I made eye contact with John X, Scarlett Jezebel and Missy de Meanour and to their credit they gave me no hint of what was to come!
I had hopes that I would make the top three but as someone who used to compete in gymnastics I was used to assuming that I had not carried off a routine to perfection and would therefore be lucky to place.
Miss Bonnie Ville standing behind me won the Miss Burlesque Tasmania Ambassador Award, Grace Cherry was then announced as the second runner up followed by Miss Bonnie Ville as first runner up.

Grace Cherry is announced as the Second Runner Up
 Bebe then announced my name and the next couple of minutes are lost to the screams of the audience and my fellow performers, I know someone was hugging me from behind and then I had to walk out to be crowned. Missy helped me when my crown would not stay on, saying she'd had the same problem last year!

Going into protection mode as Oopsy Daisy attacks me with hugs!


Missy adjusting my crown

I was crowned, sashed and handed a brown paper bag which contained a prize from one of the sponsors. My only regret was being unable to thank the audience, the judges and the other performers instead I stood there and smiled uncertainly, gestured towards the other girls and smiled some more!
Finally the curtain dropped and again I was engulfed by arms and cheers!!


With Jo backstage, Jo aka Raoul de Silva is my partner in my neo act!

After a quick pack up and drink with some of the crew I headed to Ivory Bar in Hobart for a celebratory drink, my crown was borrowed and then scarily, my foot was kissed.
With Great power comes great responsibility and apparently foot kissing. I see many manicures in my future.

I'll be updating the blog in the months leading up to the Miss Burlesque Grand Finals held in Melbourne on May 24 with photos, more of my vintage costumes and backstage gossip!
xx




Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Mme Berthe of Broadway


Madame Berthe was a New York costumier who worked between the 1930s to the 1970s.
She is credited as designing the costumes for the 1944 Broadway Variety show, Take a Bow and for the 1932 musical revue, Hey Nonny Nonny! which played at the Shubert Theatre.
Mme Berthe is also linked to the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo when in 1940  Leonide Massine was artistic director of the company having taken over from
Massine collaborated with The New Yorker illustrator, Rea Irvine using his illustrations as inspiration for characters in the ballet while Mme Berthe executed the designs.
Judging by the three costumes I have collected, her designs are made with an attention to detail and made to endure; strong foundations, thick layers of fabric, heavy duty zips and hand sewn clusters of beads and crystals.

Mme Berthe dress, with Grace Cherry and Lady Lola. Hobart 2010 Photo by Ella B

 Suzy Benzinger a current costume designer for Broadway remembers Mme Berthe from the 1970's as one of the major costumiers in New York.

Mme Berthe's signature labels shows her at 110 West 47th st

This black corset is from the 1950's. It is made in layers of thick cotton, whale boning and black silk. 
It is finished with glass beading, sequins and lace. 
The edges are scalloped with modesty panels at the front and back illusion lace over the bust.


Photo courtesy of the seller
Photo courtesy of the seller

The seller was unsure if the original belt has been switched out for the heavily sequined belt, I found a photo of a similar costume by Mme Berth which had a similar bodysuit and the same belt.
The seller had purchased the costume from MGM in California.

Three costumes auctioned off in 2008 under 'Broadway costumes' one is credited to Mme Berthe
Mme Berthe knickers from the United States. Seller had no information on provenance.

Mme Berthe knickers- nylon mesh and rhinestone

This Tag lists Mme Berthe at 539 Broadway- New York

Zip at back

My favourite item is another Etsy find. The seller was based in Hollywood and didn't know much about the provenance. She listed the dress under vintage burlesque which is how I found it...


Mme Berthe fishtail gown
The yellow gown is heavy, The hem is lined with weights to keep the tulle inserts that flare the fishtails down. The bead work is exquisite, sequins, seed pearls, pronged crystals, gold glass bugle beeds and clusters of wispy silken flowers and white leaves, hand cut and hand sewen on the beaded panels.
It is boned through the bodice and has a heavy duty metal zip at the rear. The fabric is chiffon on top of silk.

Photo by Bret Salinger The 2011 Australian Burlesque Festival
The gown was gifted to me and after some use in shows, I no longer wear it on stage as it is very fragile... But I do use it in photoshoots... A recent shoot below...

Photo by Bret Salinger

Photo by Bret Salinger

Thursday, October 25, 2012

The Australian Burlesque Festival 2012 (Melbourne)

When you live in Tasmania, you tend to hear a lot about flight delays. It's a topic of conversation that arises as often as the weather so it was no surprise when my flight to Melbourne for the Australian Burlesque Festival touched down two hours late.
A quick trip on the Skybus to Southern Cross Station and a run across the street to Vibe Savoy Hotel where I disturbed a drowsy Oopsy Daisy, my room mate for the weekend.

Oopsy Daisy had performed that evening and was crashing after being on a performance high. Baby Bombshells is the first official night of the Festival featuring up and coming performers in a friendly competition. The prize is a spot in the Big Tease, ABF's classic burlesque showcase, in Melbourne.
Oopsy had been first up and distinguished herself by tripping on to the stage in front of some of her idols,the judges, Peekaboo Pointe, Anna Fur Laxis and Tasia. Her drowsiness was only second to her anxiety over her trip up the stage!

On Friday morning we broke fast at Kinfolk, a local cafe staffed by volunteers on bourke street. Cheap and tasty and after I questioned our waitress intently, we found that the staff are more than happy to work as volunteers although I think the free coffees they score keep them going!

Oopsy Daisy at Kinfolk


Kinfolk
We mooned around Melbourne before I whipped my hair up, packed a bag and boarded a train to Thornbury where I was performing in the Thornbury Theatre as part of ABF's Empress Erotique show.
I loved the blue facade of the theatre which sat on the main strip.
Thornbury Theatre

The tech run was delayed  which gave us plenty of time to relax back stage...

Backstage refreshments

Backstage at Empress Erotique with Coppelia Jane
Everyone gets ready differently, some of us plug our ears and rehearse, some get into the zone, but Lola the Vamp I caught having a nap on the couch- no pre performance nerves for her!
The backstage area was a large airy function room lined with floor to ceiling mirrors
 To get to the Green room we had to exit a side door, bypass the kitchen and mount some stairs.
Lola the Vamp ready to go!
Performing Sirenes at Empress Erotique

Raven in the Green room






Betty Blood keeping it clean for the censors
I quickly changed into a white sequin maxi dress from the Chelsea flea markets in NYC during the interval to watch the second half from the front- not before jumping behind the merch table to give Miss Jane a hug. We met at the Perth International Burlesque Festival in May. Jane performed in the Big Tease at the Hi Fi the following night.
With Miss Jane Doe behind the merch table
Saturday was a slow day of shopping, walking and coffee with the girls from Miss Kitty's Meow who were there to support their third, Oopsy Daisy (and I like to think me too!)
We got ourselves dolled up and caught a tram up to Flinders st to join the line for The Big Tease at the Hi Fi. Headliners Lou Lou D'Vil, Miss La Vi Da and Anne Fur Laxis were easily my favourites of the night. We headed back to the hotel after the show, Melbourne was settling in for a long night of drizzling rain and we had early flights back to Hobart!